Bruno Haible 93c20ba3c0 build: Ensure that makeinfo ≥ 6.8 checks the @menu structure
See <https://lists.gnu.org/r/bug-texinfo/2023-06/msg00015.html>.

* doc/Makefile.am (MAKEINFO): New variable.
* cfg.mk (_makefile_at_at_check_exceptions): New variable.
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